Since coming to Japan, it has been one of my crucial missions to taste test all of the ramen shops in my area. Perhaps most known as of late for its destruction and city’s resilience following the 2011 disaster, the small city of Kesennuma is actually home to many mom-and-pop style noodle houses that have been around for decades! With so many to choose from, ordering chashuu (pork belly) ramen has been my go-to dish but I’m always excited to try something new or a shopkeeper’s personal favorite. Below are my top recommendations so far in the city of Kesennuma!
Price range: The price range for any style of ramen in all of the restaurants below are ¥600-900 before additional toppings, making them fantastic options for budget travelers.
Ramen Hormone Tsukasa
Thisramen house has been around for over a decade is located upstairs ina small shopping building near an izakaya bar. Parking is quitelimited so your best bet is to carpool with a friend, as I did, orwalk. When you walk in, all along the walls are beautiful vintageSapporo and Asahi beer posters. And, if you look carefully, you canfind a hilarious naked baby doll duo hidden among the decor. Theowner of this shop greeted my friend and I so kindly and seemedsurprised that foreigners had found his little shop, but he did hisbest to explain the Japanese menu whenever we had questions.
My friend and I shared two ramen sets, though we both ended up preferring hers (see above photo). The miso butter chashuu ramen had such a delicately sweet broth with the slightest kick of spice from the chile pepper threads and onions.
Afterour meal, the owner surprised us with coffee and we got to talkingwith him. We ordered delicious vanilla ice cream to pair with thecoffees and he shared photos of his family while we enjoyed ourdessert. The best thing I think you’ll find with small ruralrestaurants like this is it’s so easy to stumble into a friendshipwith a stranger.
To explain the name, “hormone” or “horumon” refers to beef or pork offal. You may have heard of it in the Kansai region of Japan but actually Kesennuma takes great pride in its horumon. This restaurant is unique in that it is one of the few ramen places that also offers yakiniku (grilled meat). Every table has its own stove to grill sets of meat! You can also order a horumon or kalbi (beef short rib) ramen if you want to try the yakiniku without preparing it yourself. I wasn’t very hungry this time around but I’m looking forward to bringing my friends next time to try it!
Address: 12-2 Taya, Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture 988-0045
Ramen Homura
This next restaurant is run by a young man and is a popular spot for people just getting off of work, opening at 5PM for dinner. It’s located just across the street and a bit up the road from Kesennuma’s local Aeon shopping mall, making it a good alternative to the food court after shopping and playing games.
Above, you can see the miso chashuu-men I enjoyed. This ramen’s broth was filled with umami and balanced nicely with the lightly sweet bamboo slices and pops of fire from the chili pepper threads. The noodles in this soup are thin and perfect for slurping compared to the typically thick and chewier noodles, like you’ll find in the next entry below.
Address: 158-2 Akaiwaishikabuto, Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture 988-0182
Shoueian
This little restaurant is also near the Aeon Mall, hidden in a vast parking lot directly behind a gas station, where the owner works. I was surprised to learn that this restaurant has been in the business for decades and it shows.
For those who love chashuu, I definitely recommend their miso butter chashuu ramen for its generously thick cuts of pork belly. They’re so tender, I would think they’re the reason “butter” is in the name if I hadn’t seen the actual slices of butter melting into the broth. The corn, bean sprouts, and bamboo make this one of the sweeter soups and it blends perfectly with the salty butter and fatty broth.
Address: 73 Akaiwasuginosawa, Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture 988-0181
Tenkaichi
This restaurant isbest enjoyed carpooling as well due to limited parking, but be sureto check whether the owners are available! When it comes to smallbusinesses in the countryside, sometimes the owners take some daysoff, but they’ll always leave a note on the door to inform you.
At the time oftaste-testing, I’d never before had janjanmen, a spicier soup withground beef or pork amidst the veggie toppings. As a lover of spice,I enjoyed working up a sweat while slurping these noodles down.
What I liked mostabout this couple-owned restaurant was the surprise of a smallservice dessert. You can have your choice of ice cream or yogurtafter the meal. The ice cream was a nice little treat to cool downafter the spicy ramen and it gave me a chance to talk to the owner.Once again, customer service reigns in tiny rural restaurants andthese moments continue to be my favorite aspect of traveling. Ifyou’re looking for the same kind of experiences, keep your eyespeeled for hidden gems like this!
Address: 3 Chome-6-15 Tanakamae, Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture 988-0053
Ganko Ramen Misoka
For those traveling on a dime, the Japanese dollar store, Daiso, has been a popular shopping center for quick souvenirs, like fans or tenugui (handkerchiefs) with various designs, to bring home. You can find this ramen-ya just a skip away from our city’s Daiso to relax and eat at after shopping. It sets itself apart from other ramen and family restaurants in the area with its locally sourced miso, making it a great way to support the community.
Following theowner’s recommendation, I ordered their Kesennuma negi miso ramen.Popular toppings like their bountiful and tender chashuu come at adiscounted add-on price, making my bowl only ¥1100.The heap of negi (spring onions) adds a sting and a snap compared tothe buttery soft meat and thick fatty broth. I also ordered their¥250 evening special gyoza which camewith miso dipping sauce. If you’re used to the sesame oil soy saucedip that normally comes with gyoza, this is a delicious alternative.
Though therestaurant is quaint in appearance, the owners are very warm andexcited to talk to travelers and show them what makes Kesennuma sospecial. You can watch old Japanese movies while you eat or talk tothe owners about your travels in Japan so far!
Address: 406-2 Matsukawa, Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture 988-0852
When it comes to eating in the countryside, as delicious as the food is, the company is what lifts the experience above and beyond. Please enjoy all of the noodles Kesennuma has to offer and witness the warmth and spirit of this city’s people!
See: Google Map